I really like neutral colors on babies. I also really like knitting with organic cotton, especially when making garments for little ones. This little pullover features both, with some simple detailing to make it special. Buttons at the front collar make this easy to get baby in and out of, and the basic shape makes it work for a girl or boy.
If you're knitting for a little girl and like some frills, you can add an I-cord flower or some other embellishment to sweeten the sweater just a little. But don't go wild - this garment's appeal is in its simplicity.
[Edited 1/1/2010 to correct error in Row 1]
- 3 skeins Blue Sky Alpacas Organic Cotton (100g, 150yd), shown in color #82, nut
- US size 7 circular needles and DPN's
- US size 5 circular needles and DPN's
- 3 3/4-inch buttons
- tapestry needle
- scrap yarn to hold sleeve stitches
- stitch markers
size: 6 (12, 18) mos
measurements: chest circumference: 19 (21, 23) inches; back length: 10-1/2 (11-1/2, 13) inches
- this sweater is worked top-down, knit in the round.
- make all increases (inc) by knitting into the front and back of the stitch (Kfb).
- as you begin the sweater, you will be knitting the front and back sections in seed stitch (K1 P1 on the first row, and on all successive rows, K the P's and P the K's), and the the sleeve sections in stockinette st (K on the front, P on the back).
starting at the neckline
Using larger circular needles, CO 2, place first marker, CO 8 (8, 9), PM, CO 10 (13, 14), PM, CO 8 (8, 9), PM, CO2. Total CO st: 30 (33, 36).
Row 1: Kfb of first stitch. Kfb of the stitch before the next marker, slip marker, Kfb. K to 1 st before next marker, Kfb, slip marker, Kfb. K1P1 to 1 st before next marker, Kfb, slip marker, Kfb. K to 1 st before next marker, Kfb, slip marker, Kfb. Kfb of last stitch.
Row 2: Purl all st st in the sleeve sections (between markers 1 and 2, and between markers 3 and 4). In the front & back sections (outer sections and the section between markers 2 and 3), knit in seed st (K all P's and P all K's).
Continue in this manner, increasing at the first and last stitch of every RS row, and increasing before and after every marker on the RS rows, remembering to use seed st in the front & back sections and stockinette in the sleeve sections. For the seam stitches (the stitches on either side of each marker), always K on the RS and P on the WS.
Continue until you have 18 (19, 20) st in the back section. From this point on, do not increase the first & last stitch of the row anymore (you will continue increasing at the markers, however).
Next RS row, patt to end of first row, then CO 2 st to the needle tip at the end of the row. Turn work and patt to end, then CO 2 st to needle tip at the end of the row. Continue knitting as you did before, increasing on the RS rows (but not at the first & last st). Continue until there are 30 (33, 36) st between the two markers in the back section.
divide for sleeves
Next RS row: Patt to M, remove, K1. Place shoulder st (to next M) on a piece of scrap yarn to hold for later. CO 3 (4, 4) st to the tip of the needle. Join to back section, patt to next M, K1. Place rem shoulder st (to next M) on scrap yarn. CO 3 (4, 4) st. Patt to end.
Cont in patt 5 rows more (all your stitches are now in seed st).
join to knit in the round
Next RS row: Change to stockinette st. K to the end of the row, CO 2, PM, join to K in the round. K in round in st st until garment measures 9-1/2 (10-1/2, 12) in. from back neck.
Change to smaller needles and knit 1 in. in K1P1 rib. BO loosely using larger needles.
Using larger DPN's, place the sleeve stitches from scrap yarn onto the needles, then join the yarn and pick up the 3 (4, 4) armpit st that you cast on when dividing for sleeves. PM for start of round. K 4 rnds.
Dec row: K1, SSK, K to last 3 st, K2 tog, K1 (2 st dec).
K 2 (3, 4) rounds, dec 2 as above.
Continue decreasing 2 st every 3 (4, 5) rows until 18 (20, 22) st rem. K until sleeve measures 6 (6-1/2, 7) in. from armpit.
Change to smaller DPN's. K1P1 rib until sleeve measures 7 (7-1/2, 8) in. BO loosely using larger needles.
placket & collar
Left side placket: Using smaller circular needle, pick up 12 (14, 16) st (you will be picking up around 3 out of every 4 st).
R1: K1 P1 rib.
R2 (buttonhole row): K1, YO, K2 tog. Patt 3 (4, 5) st. YO, K2 tog. Patt 3 (4, 5) st. YO, K2 tog. Patt to end.
R3: K1P1 rib. BO loosely using larger needle.
(Note: When making the buttonhole row, it may make more sense to use a P2tog - rather than a K2tog - to maintain your ribbing. Use whichever is appropriate).
Right side placket: Pick up 12 (14, 16) st along the right slit. Knit 3 rows in K1 P1 rib. BO loosely using larger needle.
Using the smaller circular needles, beginning at the right placket, pick up 3 st from the right side placket. Pick up all right front st, all right shoulder st, all back st, all left shoulder st, all left front st, and 3 placket st from the left side. Knit 3 rows in K1 P1 rib. BO loosely using larger needle.
Sew down the plackets with the left side (buttonhole side) on top.
Mark placement for 3 buttons and sew buttons into place.
Weave in loose ends.
important notice: This is a free pattern and you are welcome to use it for all the non-commercial purposes you like. However, you may not reproduce this pattern to sell, and you may not sell what you make with it. You may donate what you make with it to charity, and you may use it for charity fundraisers only if 100% of the proceeds are donated to the charity (and by charity I don't mean your kid's college fund). Thanks for understanding!