Friday, September 04, 2009

free pattern friday::bumpy jacket & hat


Time for some fall knitting! This baby jacket and hat set uses an old-fashioned looking stitch pattern for an elegant look in a relatively simple pattern. Suitable for a boy or girl, the Bumpy Jacket uses organic cotton and is knit all in one piece for quick finishing. Use some vintage buttons for the perfect touch.

I called it "Bumpy" both because the stitch pattern has a bumpy surface, but also because it got off to a bumpy start. One of the mistakes I made was making the sleeve increases on the wrong side, but it actually looked pretty good with the stitch pattern and became a design feature. Once it got going, the jacket came together very quickly and was a pleasure to knit. Have fun making this sweet set as a special shower gift, or for your little one.

bumpy jacket

0-6 mos (6-12 mos, 18 mos, 2 yrs, 4 yrs)

Blue Sky Alpacas Skinny Dyed Cotton, 150 yd / 137 m / 50 g per skein
Color A: 1 skein [shown in #301, Glacier]
Color B: 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) skeins [shown in #308, Mallard]
US size 5 needles, DPN and circular (or size to get gauge)
US size 3 needles, DPN and circular (or size to get gauge)
five 1/2-inch buttons
stitch markers
tapestry needle
sewing needle & thread

22 stitches / 28 rows / 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles

chest circumference: 20 (21, 22, 25, 27) inches
back length: 10.5 (11.5, 13.5, 14.5, 16) inches
sleeve length: 6 (6.5, 7.5, 8.5, 10.5) inches

waffle check stitch pattern (even # of stitches) – 2 ways
knit flat:
Row 1 (WS): Color A: Knit
Row 2 (RS): Color B: *Slip 1 wyib, K1. Repeat from * to end.
Row 3: Color B: *K1, Slip 1 wyif. Repeat from * to end.
Row 4: Color A: Knit.
Row 5: Color A: Knit.
Row 6: Color B: *K1, Slip 1 wyib. Repeat from * to end.
Row 7: Color B: *Slip 1 wyif, K1. Repeat from * to end.
Row 8: Color A: Knit

knit in the round:
Row 1: Color A: Purl.
Row 2: Color B: *Slip 1 wyib, K1. Repeat from * to end.
Row 3: Color B: *Slip 1 wyib, P1. Repeat from * to end.
Row 4: Color A: Knit.
Row 5: Color A: Purl.
Row 6: Color B: *K1, Slip 1 wyib. Repeat from * to end.
Row 7: Color B: *P1, Slip 1 wyib. Repeat from * to end.
Row 8: Color A: Knit


I strongly recommend knitting a swatch of the waffle check stitch pattern before you start, just to get the hang of it. It is quite simple, and once you’ve knit a couple of rounds of this pattern, it will become quite natural. You’ll be able to knit the sweater without having to read charts or refer to the instructions over and over. But since you have to knit it both flat and in the round, it pays to understand the stitch pattern before you begin working it in the sweater.

another note
For those who are familiar with sweaters knit top-down, this pattern is a bit quirky in that you will do the increases along the seams on the wrong side (rather than the right side, which is more common). I know it seems weird. I messed up while first designing this sweater, but I liked how it looked and decided to keep it.

bumpi model

cast on at the neckline
Using color A and larger circular needles, cast on as follows:
CO 2, PM, CO 6 (8, 8, 10, 10), PM, CO 20 (24, 24, 26, 28), PM, CO 6 (8, 8, 10, 10), PM, CO 2. You will have 34 (44, 44, 50, 52) st on your needle.

With row 1, you will also begin row 1 of the stitch pattern (following the instructions for knitting flat). You will start the stitch pattern over again in each section between the markers, in order to maintain the pattern across the increases at the shoulder seams (see this tutorial for a detailed explanation of this technique). You will never work the pattern on the stitch before or after each marker – these are the seam stitches. On right sides, simply knit the seam stitches and then start your pattern over. On wrong sides, work the increases as directed on the seam stitches, and then start your pattern over.

Row 1: *Kfb, K to 1 st before M, Kfb, slip M. Repeat from * to end. Kfb of last stitch. (10 st inc).
Row 2: Patt to end. [Here’s how to do this: Color B: *Slip 1 wyib, K1. Repeat from * to 1 st before next M. K1, slip M, K1. *Slip 1 wyib, K1. Repeat from * to 1 st before next M. Get it? Just start the stitch pattern over again in each section.
Row 3: *Kfb, Patt to 1 st before M, Kfb, slip M. Repeat from * to end. Kfb of last stitch. (10 st inc).
Row 4: Patt to end.

Continue in this manner, increasing 10 st on every WS row, and continuing the waffle check pattern, until you have 32 (40, 40, 44, 48) st between the back markers.

Next WS row, do not increase on the first and last stitches – you will increase only 8 stitches on this row. Continue increasing 8 st on every WS row until you have 50 (58, 60, 68, 76) st between the back markers.

divide for sleeves
Next RS row: Patt across the first section until you get to the first marker.
Place the stitches from the left shoulder section (between the first and second markers) onto a stitch holder or piece of scrap yarn.

CO 4 st across the gap and join to the back section.
Patt across to the third marker.
Place the stitches from the right shoulder section (between the third and fourth markers) onto a stitch holder or piece of scrap yarn.

CO 4 st across the gap and join to the last section. Patt to end.

You will have 104 (120, 124, 140, 156) st on your needle.


complete body
You will no longer be increasing on the WS rows. Simply carry the stitch pattern uninterrupted all the way around the garment as follows: K1, patt to 1 st before end, K1.
Work one full patt repeat for as many rows as that requires, ending with Row 1 of the stitch pattern.

Change to Color B and stockinette stitch (K all RS rows, P all WS rows).
Continue until the garment measures 10 (11, 13, 14, 15.5) inches from the back neck, ending on a RS row.

Change to smaller needles, and work 4 rows of garter stitch (K every row).
BO loosely.

Place the held stitches from the first sleeve onto the larger DPNs. Using the appropriate color yarn for this point in the stitch pattern, pick up the four cast-on stitches from the underarm and place a marker. This marks the start of the round.

Work as many pattern rows as you did in the sweater body after dividing for the sleeves (be sure that you are following the instructions to knit the stitch pattern in the round – it is different from how you worked the body stitches!).

Change to Color B and stockinette stitch (in the round, knit every row).

Decrease row: K1, SSK, K to 3 st before marker, K2tog, K1. 2 st decreased.
Knit 4 rows even.

Continue in this manner, decreasing 2 st on every 5th round, until 30 (32, 32, 38, 40) st rem.
Knit even until the sleeve measures 5.5 (6, 7, 8.75, 9.25) inches from underarm.

Change to smaller DPNs. Work 4 rows in garter st (P 1 row, K 1 row).

BO loosely. Work the second sleeve.

button band / collar
Before you begin, use safety pins or stitch markers to mark the placement of your buttonholes along the right front selvedge of the sweater. Place the top button 1/2 inch below the start of the neckline. Place the bottom button 1 inch up from the bottom edge of the garment, and then space the remaining buttons evenly between them.

bumpy markers

Using the smaller circular needle and Color B, begin at the bottom right corner of the sweater front. Pick up and knit 3 out of every 4 stitches up the right front until you get to the point where the neckline angles in. Place a marker. Continue picking up 3 out of 4 selvedge st until you get to the cast on row. Pick up the 2 right front st, the 6 (8, 8, 10, 10) right shoulder st, the 20 (24, 24, 26, 28) back st, the 6 (8, 8, 10, 10) left shoulder st, and the 2 left front st. Then continue down the left neck picking up 3 out of 4 selvedge st. When you get to the point where the neckline ends, place a marker and continue down the left front, picking up 3 out of 4 selvedge st to the bottom left corner.

Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: K to 1 st before the first marker, Kfb, slip marker, Kfb. K to 1 st before the second marker, Kfb, slip marker, Kfb. K to end. You are using these double increases to create a neat mitred corner at the neckline.
Row 3: (make buttonholes): Knit until you reach the point where you would like each buttonhole to be placed. For each buttonhole, YO, K2tog. K to end.
Row 4: Knit.
Row 5: BO loosely.

Sew buttons on very firmly.
Weave in ends.

Use Color A for the body instead of Color B (you would need less than one skein of Color B to complete the garment in any size).

variation in color A - see how the hat looks here

bumpy hat


0-6 mos (6-12 mos, 18 mos, 2 yrs, 4 yrs)

Blue Sky Alpacas Skinny Dyed Cotton
Color A: 1 skein (for the 2 smallest sizes, sweater leftovers are enough)
Color B: 1 skein
size 5 needles, DPN and 16” circular (or size to get gauge)
stitch markers
tapestry needle

head circumference: 14 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 18) inches

a note on sizing
The waffle check pattern is based on garter stitch, which is not very stretchy. If your baby has a big noggin like mine does, you may want to go up a size (see measurements, above).

inner casing
In Color A, cast on loosely 78 (86, 88, 92, 100) stitches. Place marker and knit in the round in st st until section measures 1.75 (1.75, 1.75, 2.25, 2.25) inches from cast on edge.

Next row: K2, YO, K to 2 st before marker, YO, K2.
Next row: Knit across, increasing 0 (0, 2, 2, 2) st evenly as you go. You will have 80 (88, 92, 96, 104) stitches on your needle.

Next row: Change to waffle check stitch pattern (be sure to follow the directions for knitting in the round). Knit 2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 4, 4) full repeats of the stitch pattern.

Next row: Change to color B and st st. Work 1 round even.
Next row: Decrease 2 (2, 4, 4, 4) st evenly across this round.
Continue knitting in st st until hat measures 5 (5, 6, 6.5, 7.25) inches from the beginning of the waffle check pattern.
For the two smallest sizes, knit 1 round, decreasing 2 stitches this round, evenly spaced.

decreasing for the crown
Dec rnd 1: *K2, K2 tog. Repeat from * to end.
Knit 1 round even.
Dec rnd 2: *K1, K2 tog. Repeat from * to end.
Knit 1 round even.
Dec rnd 3: *K2 tog. Repeat from * to end.
Repeat this last dec round until 5 stitches remain. Cut the yarn, pull the tail through the remaining stitches and fasten securely on the inside of the hat.

Turn hat inside-out. Fold up the inner casing so that the first row of the waffle check pattern serves as the turning ridge. Sew into place, taking care that your sewing yarn does not show through on the right side.

Weave in loose ends.

important notice: This is a free pattern and you are welcome to use it for all the non-commercial purposes you like. However, you may not reproduce this pattern to sell, and you may not sell what you make with it. You may donate what you make with it to charity, and you may use it for charity fundraisers only if 100% of the proceeds are donated to the charity (and by charity I don't mean your kid's college fund). Thanks for understanding!



    Thanks for the pattern. :-)

  2. This is just so sweet! I even have some lovely organic cotton in girly colours that would be just perfect for it. All I need now is a bay girl to knit for, but my friends keep on having boys!

  3. What a great looking set! You do such wonderful work. Thank you, I'm off to find a yarn sale.

  4. Super cute! I'll be adding that to my Ravelry queue for the next baby that comes along :)

  5. wonderful, will cast it on once I've finished my current project. As ever, your patterns rock.

  6. I love this! Top down is my all time favourite way to knit and this is really different with its V-neck and patterned yoke. Not forgetting the little hat, of course!
    Another in my To Do pile!!
    Many thanks,
    Chris, UK.

  7. Thanks for sharing this pattern! I hope I'm a good enough knitter to make this!

  8. Very cute!! The white in the yoke and on the hat add alot of visual! :)

  9. hard to believe
    i had to force you
    to knit
    at one time.
    great pattern.
    you are

  10. That is so pretty! I love the bumpy pattern. I'll be linking to this.

  11. Really cute! I bet that would be a super way to use small amounts of handspun in baby stuff. I never spin enough for a whole sweater. Thanks!

  12. Jadekitty: The needle size is US. sorry for the oversight!


  14. Brooksie: I have only knitted this sweater in cotton. I did notice one version on Ravelry that was knitted in a DK-weight superwash merino:

  15. Hi could you tell me what the abbreviation wyib in the waffle check stitch pattern stands for please

  16. Thanks for this pattern. It is really beautiful.

  17. This is lovely. I have a yarn which is giving me the guage 16 st/28 rows for 4 inch. I want to knit the last size (with chest circumference of 27 inches). Can you please help with the conversion?

  18. Hi Sowmya! That is a pretty chunky gauge for a baby sweater. I am not a big fan of significant gauge conversions, so I'm sorry that I can't help with the math. However, if you do charge bravely forward, I recommend you to Barbara Walker's wonderful book, "Knitting from the Top," to come to your aid in this and perhaps many future projects.

  19. Thank you for sharing your patterns, I love all of them. I knit for a church bazaar and they will be very pleased to receive new designs.
    You are a great knitter!

  20. Doesn't the smallest pattern equal 36 stitches and NOT 34? I mean the sweater.

  21. Lovely pattern. Thank you very much.

    I am confused about 1 thing. When you get to this part:

    Next WS row, do not increase on the first and last stitches – you will increase only 8 stitches on this row. Continue increasing 8 st on every WS row until you have 50 (58, 60, 68, 76) st between the back markers.

    the front panels have an odd number of stitches on every other increase row. How do you keep the pattern consistent? Or am I doing something completely wrong?


  22. I think I may have figured it out. Don't knit the pattern through the increase stitches (just like you said in the instructions!) That explains a lot.


  23. Lisa, glad it made sense! Good luck finishing! : )

  24. Urooj: Yes, that should equal 36 stitches when you cast on! Good catch, thank you!

  25. I love this pattern but maybe I'm not advanced enough. I'm confused by the different directions for flat v. round. I think you start with flat, but when do you switch to round?

  26. You only knit in the round for the hat. I could definitely make that more clear in the directions! Good luck!

  27. Thank you so much for sharing this wonderful pattern - it is absolutely lovely. At last a pretty pattern that is also suitable for boys.
    I do have one question though: why is there a yo in the hat pattern? As yo does, there are two holes there now and I don't understand what they're for. I feel a bit stupid. I knitted the whole thing and only started wondering at the very end. Please help!
    Thank you very much!

  28. Hi f. pea.
    Thank you so much for publishing this lovely pattern! I've cast on and started knitting the 2yrs size), but have run into a bit of confusion at row 2 already!
    Let me break it down, and I hope you can help:
    After row 1 (first set of increases), I end up with 60 stitches, distributed like this:
    4 M 12 M 28 M 12 M 4
    If I've understood the instructions for the following row correctly, I should slip1wyib K1, except for the stitches before and after the markers, where, no matter where I am in the sl1wyib K1 sequence, I "K1 slM K1".
    So this means that sometimes, I'll end up with: sl1wyib K1 K1 slM K1 sl1wyib. Other times, I'll end up with sl1wyib K1 sl1wyib K1 slM K1 sl1wyib. In other words, sometimes I'll have 2 knit stitches surrounding the marker, and sometimes I'll have 3.
    My problem is that these two situations don't seem to be symmetrical on the right and left shoulder/sleeves. Is that normal? I hope I've explained it somewhat clearly!!
    I've written out all my stitches and just can't work it out. I'd appreciate any help you can give, I can't wait to continue knitting this!

  29. I am really confused, I understand the sl wyib, k1, but on the next row k1 slip 1 wyif do I knit 1 then slip 1 with the wool in front then put wool at the back to knit the next stitch or do I knit 1 slip 1 with wool in front then knit one with wool still at the front, when I do this I have 2 loops on needle. I have done it both ways but it still doesn't look like the picture

  30. Dear Anonymous:

    on row 3, knit one, then slip one with the yarn held in front of the work, then move your yarn back into position at the back side of the work for the next knit stitch.

    in general with fancy stitch patterns, when you’re slipping a stitch, the pattern will tell you where to hold the yarn while slipping that one stitch (in front or in back). but that direction only applies to the slipped stitch. for the next stitch, bring the yarn to wherever the “normal” position would be for whatever the next stitch is. if there are more fancy requirements for that next stitch, the directions should spell that out.

    i hope that helps!!

  31. I am going for the smallest size 0-6 months, the c/o if I do the math comes out to 36 sts not 34 as stated in the pattern. Could you please post any errata.


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